10 Best Essential Oils for Darker Skin Tones
Written by: Precious Umeasalugo
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Experts tell us the essential oils for melanin-rich skin.
Sometimes, "natural" does mean better – and the same applies to essential oils. From homemade remedies to making your home smell its best, essential oils promise a world of good for your health and leisure. These oils are not just great for your diffusers and humidifiers but for your skin as well. Essential oils have been used in cosmetic formulations for centuries to target specific skin concerns. And they’re still just as potent in modern day routines.
For darker skin tones, however, there's still a bit of mystery around what specific benefits these essential oils can provide. Can they clear our hyperpigmentation? Are they suited for acne-prone skin? Can they help with scarring? And if they can, what's the science behind them?
To give more insight into these oils, we spoke to two professionals with extensive experience in aromatherapy, cosmetic chemistry, and skin of colour. Here's what they had to say.
Ishita Saxena is the founder of Arezou, India's first aromatherapy-inspired personalized skincare and wellness brand.
With her diploma in herbalism and her experience as a certified clinical aromatherapist, Ishita is no stranger to essential oils, as she uses them to craft oil-based rituals for women in different phases of their lives. Ishita is also India's only certified soap maker from the Handcrafted Soap and Cosmetics Guild in the United States.
Kamara Hakeem-Oyawoye is a cosmetic scientist and brand consultant with vast experience across global product and strategic consultancy.
Hakeem-Oyawoye attained her Master’s degree from the world-renowned University of the Arts before becoming the Head of Product Development for By Dr Vali, the first-of-its-kind dermatological experiential centre in Selfridges.
What are essential oils?
Essential oils are highly concentrated oils derived from certain plants. Unlike regular oils, essential oils can evaporate even at room temperature. But that's not the only way they differ from other oils.
"Unlike vegetable oils which you get from the fatty seeds and kernels of plants, essential oils are derived from the drier sections, like the leaves or roots," Saxena highlights. The plants these essential oils are obtained from are also usually used medicinally.
How are essential oils different from regular oils?
Courtesy of Ishita Saxena
Due to their high concentration of skin-loving compounds, essential oils are not suitable for direct use on the skin. Instead, they need to be diluted with carrier oils before topical application. "Carrier oils, also known as base oils, do not evaporate as easily as essential oils. They also do not impart their aroma as strongly," Saxena explains.
Additionally, while carrier oils like carrot and olive oil have more of a gentle lipid profile, cosmetic chemist Hakeem-Oyawoye states that essential oils act more as active ingredients. This is also why carrier oils can be applied to the skin for their nourishing properties, while undiluted essential oils are too concentrated for direct use.
How do essential oils work on the skin?
"Essential oils contain active chemical components in varying amounts, which make them effective for different skin concerns," Ishita answers. For example, antioxidant-rich oils like eucalyptus or lavender oil are great for stopping cellular damage on the skin. In contrast, other oils contain more anti-inflammatory factors and are better suited to regulating sebum in the skin.
"A single essential oil can provide various benefits and uses to nourish and nurture the skin for a healthy glow," Saxena affirms. But how do these essential oils get through to the skin to work their magic? The answer lies within their chemistry.
"Essential oils act as a vehicle into the skin through which the compounds filter through and become active," Hakeem-Oyawoye says and explains further using the example of one of our favourite essential oils, ylang-ylang. "Ylang-ylang essential oil contains compounds like linalool which delivers anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory benefits."
These benefits make the oil (and several others) great for skin concerns like acne, dry patches, and hyperpigmentation.
“Essential oils can be harmful to the skin when applied directly. They can cause burns, sensitization, and irritation.”
The best essential oils for darker skin tones
When it comes to skin of color, several differences factor into our skin needs.
For one, darker skin tones have a thicker stratum corneum and a thicker dermis than other phototypes. They are also more susceptible to inflammation which manifests as acne and hyperpigmentation.
And that's not all. Saxena adds that the climate and geography of where you live can influence your skin health. Thankfully, essential oils can target multiple skin concerns, from ageing and excess oil production to scarring.
Remember that essential oils usually contain several potent ingredients, allowing them to target different skin concerns simultaneously, even in one category.
For hyperpigmentation and scarring
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Bergamot oil
Very few oils have a profile as memorable as bergamot. Besides its pleasant citrusy scent, bergamot oil is a rich source of vitamin C, which helps target skin concerns like dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
Saxena explains that the oil is also suited to tackling teenage skin problems like acne and excess sebum due to its anti-microbial and oil-balancing functions. "The wonderful aroma can also boost the mind and ease your worries, especially during times of sadness and grief."
Geranium oil
Proper wound care is crucial for people with skin of colour, as wounds and cuts lead to hyperpigmentation and scarring. Geranium oil helps avoid scarring by reducing inflammation and improving overall skin complexion.
"Geranium essential oil also balances oil production, conditions skin, and can be added to creams and lotions," Saxena adds.
Lavender oil
Lavender's best known for its sweet floral notes, but it has excellent skin benefits, too, particularly on skin of colour. “The steam-distilled oil is also excellent for burns and scrapes, and it prevents scarring from these wounds," Saxena mentions, "It can also be added to your favourite lotion or carrier oil to soothe the skin and unwind the senses too."
For dry skin
Patchouli oil
Patchouli essential oil is excellent for mature skin concerns like age spots and wrinkles, as it helps lighten up the appearance of these age spots and reverse skin damage.
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This essential oil is also great for dry skin and other related concerns like eczema and dermatitis, as it hydrates and nourishes the skin while clearing up scars and blemishes.
And fun fact - you can also include the oil in your haircare routine to treat dandruff and an itchy scalp.
Rosehip oil
Essential oils are always chock full of antioxidants; rosehip oil is no exception. The oil contains compounds like beta-carotene and vitamin C, which reverse skin damage on the cellular level by mopping up free radicals.
Rosehip oil also contains tannins with astringent properties on the skin, and fatty acids which hydrate and protect the skin's moisture barrier, making the oil suitable for oily and dry skin.
For oily skin
Sandalwood oil
Sandalwood oil is a multifunctional facial oil. From treating acne and hydrating the skin to clearing out acne scars and hyperpigmentation, it's a skin powerhouse. Sandalwood oil is also great for aromatherapy. "Its rich, woodsy scent is strong but has a hint of sweetness, making this oil a dream to the senses. It relieves tension and calms agitated emotions, too," Saxena explains.
Tea tree oil
There's no oil as synonymous with our adolescent, acne-ridden years as tea tree essential oil. Native to Australia, Saxena describes the medicinal oil as great for teenage blemishes and other skin concerns like acne and scarring. Tea tree oil also helps regulate oil production in the skin and is one of the most popular essential oils.
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For acne-prone skin
Lemongrass oil
Lemongrass oil contains anti-microbial compounds, which allow the oil to work as a natural astringent for acne-prone skin.
"The oil serves to cleanse oily skin while toning and tightening the skin," Saxena explains. By toning and tightening skin pores, lemongrass oil is excellent for acne, acne scars and helps improve the texture and look of your skin.
For mature skin
Frankincense carterii oil
"Where the gum resin from frankincense can be used to treat bruises, swelling, and sores from traumatic injuries, the oil rejuvenates mature skin and can be used in serums or creams for the face. It also helps reduce pigmentation while toning or tightening the skin," Saxena explains. This makes it great for ageing or mature skin of colour.
Curry plant oil
Helichrysum italicum oil, also known as Immortelle or Mediterranean curry plant, is incredibly beneficial for skin of colour. This essential oil rejuvenates the look of healthy, unblemished skin.
"Use it to reduce the appearance of scars, wrinkles, and other blemishes on the face or body and improve skin elasticity," she adds.
How to use essential oils
Essential oils may seem almost magical, but they come with their precautions. For one, there's a problem with direct application. As earlier stated, essential oils are highly concentrated oils.
"Essential oils can be harmful to the skin when applied directly. They can cause burns, sensitization, and irritation", Hakeem-Oyawoye stresses. Instead, essential oils must be diluted or mixed with other oils or products to be safe for application on the skin.
Some ways to do this include using them in an already-made cosmetic product or diluting them with a carrier oil. "Carrier oils have wonderful moisturizing properties, and when mixed with essential oils, the nourishing properties of both make an amazing skin rejuvenating duo," Saxena says.
There's also the option of combining the oils with your skincare products. You can mix some of your product, like a moisturizer or serum, with a drop for immediate application or add directly into the product container. "By adding a few drops of essential oil to your facial cleanser or lotion, toner, or moisturizer bottle, you won't have to think about adding essential oils into your skincare routine—they'll already be part of it!" Ishita says.
“Always buy your essential oils from a reputable brand that delivers pure, high-quality, therapeutic-grade essential oils emphasizing scientific testing and responsible sourcing. The best essential oils are 100% plant-derived without fillers or byproducts”
Are there any inhibitions for people with sensitive skin?
Essential oils may promise a world of good, but they can be incredibly irritating, especially for people with sensitive skin or allergies to specific compounds.
To tackle this, ensure you carry out a patch test and read the ingredient profile of your diluted essential oils before using them on your body. If irritation does occur 24 - 48 hours after your patch test, the essential oil is likely not your best choice.
“Also, always buy your essential oils from a reputable brand that delivers pure, high-quality, therapeutic-grade essential oils emphasizing scientific testing and responsible sourcing. The best essential oils are 100% plant-derived without fillers or byproducts.” Saxena adds.
For sensitive skin, it's best to use cosmetic formulations that already contain these essential oils so you get most of the benefits of the oils with less irritation.
Can essential oils be applied during pregnancy?
During pregnancy, many women of colour turn to essential oils for relaxation and growing skin concerns like stretch marks and hyperpigmentation. But is it safe?
Both experts agree that it's less about the essential oils being safe (which they are) and more about irritating the expecting mother.
"Essential oils are aromatic, which can be nauseating during pregnancy," Hakeem-Oyawoye explains. Therefore, it's important for pregnant women to exercise caution, especially during the first trimester, when morning sickness and nausea from smells are valid worries.
Keep Reading: Does Darker Skin Need Different Skincare?
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1.Baser, K.H.C., & Buchbauer, G. (Eds.). (2009). Handbook of Essential Oils: Science, Technology, and Applications (1st ed.). CRC Press. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781420063165
2.Huang, H. C., Ho, Y. C., Lim, J. M., Chang, T. Y., Ho, C. L., & Chang, T. M. (2015). Investigation of the Anti-Melanogenic and Antioxidant Characteristics of Eucalyptus camaldulensis Flower Essential Oil and Determination of Its Chemical Composition. International journal of molecular sciences, 16(5), 10470–10490. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms160510470
