A Leading Indian Dermatologist Tells Us How to Take Care of South Asian Skin
Written by: Naveera Perera
@adobestock
Nothing off limits here.
Remember there was a time when almost all commercials you came across in the beauty industry were primarily focused on light-skinned people? This was no exception in South Asia, where locally, our markets have also primarily carried international brands that are not necessarily the best options for our skin.
But over the last ten years, there has been a dramatic shift in the Indian beauty industry, with homegrown brands taking center stage. These brands have grown to create an extensive line of products that can nourish and protect the different types of melanin-skin tones in India and across South Asia. If you think about it, though, how much do you understand about your own skin when there is a wide range of skin tones in the South Asian region, from light to darker skin tones?
In this article, we speak to Dr Jaishree Sharad, an expert that specialises in Indian skincare, to break down everything there is to know about having healthy Indian or South Asian skin. Here is what she had to say.
Dr Jaishree Sharad, MBBS, PGIM in Dermatology, is a leading dermatologist with over 23 years of experience, catering to a high clientele of celebrities, from Bollywood stars to sportspersons and politicians
In 2006, she opened her own clinic, Skinfinitii, in Bandra and Vashi, and subsequently extended operations to Khar, Mumbai. She is the author of two of the best-selling books on skin care called, Skin Rules (2018) and Skin Talks (2014). Sharad holds multiple prominent roles, including earning the position of Vice Presidency of the Cosmetic Dermatology Society of India whilst also being an Executive Board Member of the European Society of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery.
What is wheatish skin?
The multiple skin types in the South Asian region, especially India, are commonly categorised under the umbrella term ‘wheatish’.
Sharad explains that “skin which easily tans but does not burn falls in the Fitzpatrick classification of skin types III, IV & V and is known as wheatish skin. In short, it is all shades of brown”.
So what is the Fitzpatrick classification?? It is a scale to help you understand how your skin tans and burns.
Skin type III - Your skin burns moderately and tans gradually to light brown
Skin type IV - Your skin burns minimally and always tans well to moderately brown.
Skin type V - Your skin rarely burns, and it tans profusely to dark.
Common skin concerns in South Asian skin
In this context, it would be useful to understand the sort of skin concerns these skin types experience. Sharad notes that some of the most common skin concerns in South Asian skin include:
“Hyperpigmentation such as melasma, lichen planus pigmentosus, facial melanosis, peri orbital melanosis, pigmentary demarcation lines.”
Hyperpigmentation refers to brown to grey-brown patches on the face or other parts of the body. Some people could be susceptible to hyperpigmentation more than others in South Asia. If you are one of them, ultraviolet radiation could exacerbate your hyperpigmentation.
“Keloids in darker tones”
Keloids refer to a scar you may have gotten after surgery, acne, piercing or any other injury which grows larger than the original wound.
“Acne keloidalis nuchae in darker tones”
Acne Kelodialis refers to keloid-like scars being formed at the nape of the neck.
“Acanthosis nigricans (darkening and thickening of skin folds majorly due to insulin resistance)”
Why is South Asian skin ashen at times?
If you have melanin-rich skin, you may have noticed you experience an ashen skin tone at times. This is relatively common when you have a darker skin tone and can be a result of dry and dehydrated skin.
Sharad explains that “anaemia, vitamin B 12 deficiency, cold climates and lack of oxygen can result in ashen colour” in your skin.
Taking care of South Asian skin
Even if you belong to the same family, your skin may be extremely different from your siblings or parents. This means the kind of healthy lifestyle tips you should follow, the best diet that is most appropriate, and the products you should be using on your skin will depend on a myriad of factors.
Your skincare routine
Sharad recommends an easy and straightforward skincare routine in the morning and at night.
According to her, in the morning, you should ideally “cleanse, apply a vitamin C or niacinamide or hyaluronic acid serum only if needed, then moisturise and lastly, apply a sunscreen.”
For the night, she advises you “remove make-up, cleanse, apply a targeted serum, apply an under-eye cream or serum, and moisturise”.
Sharad says that the ingredients of your cleanser, exfoliator and moisturiser “will depend on the type of skin and not the colour of skin”. According to her, you should look at the following ingredients when purchasing a product.
Keep Reading: Does Darker Skin Need Different Skincare?
Cleanser
“If one has oily skin, look for salicylic acid, tea tree oil, glycolic acid, and grape seed extract. If you have dry skin, look for hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil.”
“If you have normal skin, you can use any cleanser.”
“If you have sensitive skin, avoid surfactants such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES).”
Exfoliator
You can use either “Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid, mandelic acid or Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), such as salicylic acid.”
AHA is a water-soluble acid-based product made from sugary fruits that peel away the surface of your skin for healthy pigmented skin to generate.
BHA is an oil-soluble based product that can reach deep into your pores and remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.
Moisturiser
“Again, depending on the skin type and climate, look for hyaluronic acid, ceramides, oils, glycerine, dimethicone and urea-based products”.
How to get a more even skin tone
Your Diet
The things you eat play a vital role in ensuring you have an even skin tone. Sharad, in this respect, suggests you “Have a lot of vitamin C in your food. Include lime, lemon, oranges, berries in your routine diet.”
Effective ingredients for an even skin tone
When purchasing products, Sharad says that“creams or serums containing vitamin C, niacinamide, kojic acid, arbutin, liquorice, glycolic acid and flavonoids are safe.”
If these topical products don’t work, then, Sharad clarifies that “chemical peels and treatment with Q switched Nd Yag laser are done for pigmentation that doesn’t lighten with creams”.
How to use hyaluronic acid serum
You might be wondering whether every product you purchase for your skincare routine is differentiated in terms of fair or dark skin. When it comes to hyaluronic acid serum, Sharad confirms that “All HA serums, whether for brown or fair skin, are the same. There is no specific one I would recommend. The key is to apply the hyaluronic acid serum on slightly damp skin to lock in moisture. HA is a humectant. It absorbs water and keeps the skin hydrated.”
Pigmentation removal soaps
Pigmentation removal soaps have been popular in India for a while and we wanted to drill down into whether these soaps were safe or whether they were simply another alter ego of whitening products.
Firstly, Sharad highlights that firstly, “There is no soap which can remove pigmentation. Melanin settles in the deeper layers of the skin and cannot be removed by soap.”
Secondly, she cautioned that “some soaps may contain bleaching agents which may bleach the upper layers of the skin, making the skin look bright for a few hours. It is not advisable to use such soaps routinely as they may do more harm than good. They may even alter skin pH and make the skin dry.”
Tan removal
Everyone loves a good tan, but if you are struggling with an excessive tan, you may wonder how to deal with it.
The most important advice: according to Sharad, “A tan goes away on its own in 6 to 12 weeks. So it is really not necessary to get it removed”. We think this is best, too: enjoy your beautiful tan while it lasts!
But with tan removal products on the rise and this being a common concern among South Asian women, Sharad gave us some guidance on what to do if you really want to remove your tan.
Sharad says you can“opt for certain medical treatments such as chemical peels or laser toning a week after returning from the holiday”, but she warns that you should be sure to do these only in a skin clinic.”
-
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK459135/
Keep Reading: What causes dark spots and how do you get rid of them
