The Science Behind Why East Asian Skin Needs Different Skincare
Written by: Jessica Choi
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You’ll want to properly hydrate and use sunscreen daily.
Your skincare routine is important at any age and should be tailored to your specific needs, especially depending on your ethnicity. If you’re East Asian, your skin has its own set of requirements and there is a science behind why East Asians need different skincare than other ethnicities.
You’ve probably heard of the 10-step Korean skincare routine but with so many products out there, it’s hard to determine which ones are best for your skin. And do you even need that many steps in your daily regimen?
While it may be tempting to buy everything and anything you think will give you that healthy glow, you need to understand what exactly East Asian skin needs and how you can protect it from damage.
We spoke to the experts to break down what’s best for East Asian skin: Singapore-based dermatologist Dr. Angeline Yong and Dr Shuting Hu, the founder of the skincare brand Acaderma.
Read on so that you can curate your own skincare routine for the best possible results.
Dr. Angeline Yong is an award-winning, experienced Singapore-based dermatologist accredited by the Ministry of Health.
Prior to leaving for private practice, Dr Yong was the only dermatologist accredited to perform both Mohs Micrographic Surgery and hair transplantation in the National Skin Centre, as well as the first Singaporean dermatologist possessing the required qualifications to join the American College of Mohs Surgery. She completed fellowships at prestigious institutions in the US, UK and Korea where she was trained in her clinical interests of Cosmetic and Procedural Dermatology, Mohs Micrographic Surgery, Hair Transplantation Surgery and Skin Cancers. Dr Yong also holds a Masters in Public Health from Harvard University.
She is the recipient of the Healthcare Humanity Award, AAD Annual Meeting Registration Scholarship, Health Manpower Development Plan Scholarship for Fellowship in Mohs Micrographic Surgery, Procedural and Laser Dermatology and also the National Skin Centre Service Champion Award (Gold).
Dr. Shuting Hu is a cosmetic scientist and a co-founder of the skincare brand, Acaderma.
She obtained her doctoral degree from the school of biological science at the University of Hong Kong in 2014, where she also worked as a post-doctoral researcher. In 2013, she won the Henry Maso Award For Young Cosmetic Scientists.
What is East Asian Skin?
Before your race to the nearest beauty store, you need to understand what East Asian skin is.
Yong describes that those who are native to China, Japan, Korea, and other nearby regions are considered East Asian.
However, she adds, “It is important to note that there is significant diversity within the East Asian population, and not all people have the same skin characteristics.”
East Asians usually have a light to medium complexion, but there are others who can be paler or darker. They also often have a yellow undertone, which is caused by a higher production of melanin.
“The distribution of melanin in East Asian skin is generally more evenly dispersed, with smaller melanosomes spread throughout the epidermis. This contributes to the characteristic yellow undertone of East Asian people,” Yong states.
Key Characteristics of East Asian Skin
There is a difference between East Asian skin and other skin types.
East Asian Skin Produces Low Sebum
Yong states, “East Asian skin tends to produce less sebum (oil) compared to other ethnicities. This can lead to a drier skin texture and a lower likelihood of developing acne.”
Thinner Stratum Corneum
The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and according to Yong, East Asian skin is thinner than other ethnicities.
Melanin Content & Distribution
Compared to other ethnicities with the same skin tone range, East Asian skin has more melanin, which provides more protection against harmful UV rays.
Melanin is also “generally more evenly spread out than in other ethnicities,” Yong explains. “Melanin is present in smaller, more dispersed melanosomes that do not form distinct clusters. This contributes to the yellow undertone seen in East Asian people.”
They also produce less oil that can cause dry skin but the upside is, they have a lower chance of getting breakouts such as acne.
Higher Sensitivity
Because East Asian skin is different from others in that the stratum corneum is usually thinner, sensitive skin and a stronger likelihood of irritation is likely.
“It is important to note that skin characteristics can vary greatly from person to person, as they are influenced by factors such as genetics, lifestyle, and environmental factors,” Yong advises. So while the aforementioned factors can be used to describe how East Asian skin is different than other skin types, not everyone fits into the same category.
“It is important to note that there is significant diversity within the East Asian population, and not all people have the same skin characteristics.”
The Science Behind Why East Asian Skin Needs Different Skincare
There is a science behind East Asian skin needing a specialized skincare routine. Because East Asian skin produces less sebum than other skin types, they’ll need a moisturizer that hydrates well.
Yong warns against using harsh products that “can strip away the natural oils, leading to dryness and possible damage to the skin barrier.” Those with East Asian skin need gentle cleansers that won’t strip too much of their sebum.
The lack of excessive sebum can also cause sensitive skin so be aware of the ingredients in your skincare products and make sure there’s nothing that will irritate or dry out your skin.
“Hydration helps to compensate for this lower sebum production by replenishing and maintaining the skin's moisture levels,” Yong states.
The climate of East Asia also affects your skincare needs and those living in dry regions need to be sure to hydrate their skin well. In addition to moisturizers and serums, it’s important to drink plenty of water and have a healthy diet.
Common Skin Concerns for East Asian Skin
Even though East Asian skin has a higher melanin content, there are still some common skin concerns for those who are from the region.
Sunspots and Freckles
A skin concern of East Asians is sunspots and other sun-induced dark marks.
“East Asian skin tends to develop sun spots and freckles when exposed to UV radiation. Sunspots, also known as sun lentigines or age spots, are dark patches that appear on the skin due to an overproduction of melanin in response to sun exposure,” Yong says.
The spots are caused by a buildup of melanin and make the skin appear uneven.
Uneven Skin
Along with exposure to UV radiation, hormonal changes, genetics, and lifestyle choices can affect the skin’s even tone.
Yong warns, “Uneven skin tone can affect the overall complexion and contribute to a lack of evenness in the skin.”
Sunburn
Your skin can still suffer the effects of UV radiation and be exposed to sunburns, which can cause pain, redness, inflammation, and peeling, Yong warns.
Hyperpigmentation
East Asians are also at a higher risk of hyperpigmentation, which can result in sun spots and freckles when exposed to high levels of UVA, UVB, and UVC rays.
Exposure can also lead to premature aging, also known as photo-aging, and can cause “the breakdown of collagen and elastin fibers in the skin, leading to fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin,” according to Yong.
Hyperpigmentation can also occur after injury to the skin or inflammation. Called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), excess melanin can develop after acne breakouts, cuts, burns, and other skin-related issues.
Melasma
East Asians are also concerned about melasma, which are dark patches on the face. This can be caused by hormonal changes, genetics, or exposure to the sun. Melasma can be hard to treat but certain creams can help reduce its appearance.
Skin cancer is another common skin concern for East Asian skin but Yong states “although the risk is generally lower than for people with lighter skin tones.”
That’s why Yong advises using high SPF and protective measures such as wearing hats, long-sleeved shirts, and sunglasses. The takeaway is that the more you protect yourself from the sun, the healthier it will be in the long run.
Photo-aging
East Asian skin is more susceptible to premature aging caused by UV radiation.
This is called photo-aging and Yong states, “UV radiation can cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin fibres in the skin, leading to fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Photo-aging can make the skin look older than it actually is.”
Risk of Skin Cancer
“Although East Asian skin has a higher melanin content, it is still possible for people to develop skin cancer due to UV radiation,” Yong warns. Therefore, it’s important to protect your skin with SPF and wear protective clothing.
Protecting your skin from pollution
Besides being aware of how genetics play into your skincare choices, you need to think about environmental stressors such as pollution.
How pollution affects East Asian skin
“Air pollution, including pollutants such as particulate matter (PM), heavy metals, and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) can generate free radicals on the skin surface,” Yong states.
“These free radicals contribute to oxidative stress, damaging skin cells and accelerating the aging process. East Asian skin, like any other skin type, is susceptible to oxidative stress and its associated effects such as wrinkles, fine lines, and a dull complexion.”
Pollution can also aggravate inflammation in East Asian skin because of its thin stratum corneum (outer layer) and cause redness, itchiness, and discomfort.
“Prolonged exposure to pollutants can weaken the skin's barrier function, allowing harmful substances to penetrate more easily,” Yong warns. Those substances can lead to the loss of moisture, dehydrated skin, and increased sensitivity.
Use these protective measures against pollution
To protect your skin from the harmful effects of pollution, Yong suggests double cleansing with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser “to effectively remove the pollutants and impurities accumulated on the skin surface.” The double cleansing gets rid of any accumulated impurities on the skin brought on by pollution.
Products with antioxidants help neutralize free radicals. “Using skincare products with antioxidant ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E, green tea extract or niacinamide can help fight oxidative stress and protect the skin from environmental damage,” says Yong.
In addition to antioxidants, Yong advises looking for moisturisers and serums with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and peptides which strengthen the skin’s natural barrier and provide hydration.
Sunscreen is key in protecting your skin from harmful UV rays. “Applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF protects the skin from UV rays and provides an additional barrier against pollutant particles,” Yong shares.
Exfoliate regularly to get rid of dead skin cells and pollutants. Anti-pollution products such as those containing activated charcoal, and moringa extract also remove pollutants from the skin’s surface.
“In addition to skin care, a healthy lifestyle can also help minimise environmental skin damage. This includes avoiding smoking, maintaining a balanced diet rich in antioxidants, staying hydrated, and spending as little time as possible in highly polluted environments,” Yong advises.
How to Find the Right Skincare Routine for Your East Asian Skin
Now that you know what to do to protect your skin, you’ll need to learn how to find the right skincare routine for East Asian skin.
Vitamin C & Vitamin B3
According to Hu, you should look for ingredients such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3. Those ingredients “can boost skin glow, slow down skin aging, and treat hyperpigmentation.”
Suncare
One of the main concerns for East Asians is dealing with or preventing hyperpigmentation and their skin usually falls within the Fitzpatrick Skin types 3-4 range. “Therefore, studies highly recommend those with East Asian skin type use broad-spectrum sunscreens that contain filters that block UVA and UVB, and visible light,” Hu states.
Using an antioxidant serum prior to applying sunscreen will give you another layer of protection from harmful UV damage. Hu recommends using Acaderma’s Invisible Shield Defense Serum and SkinBetter’s Science Alto Defense Serum.
Barrier-building Products
Those with sensitive East Asian skin should look for “ingredients that can strengthen or repair the skin barrier.” Hu suggests using creams that contain ceramides or serums with plant extracts, such as Acaderma’s The Oasis Barrier Booster Serum, which has kinkeliba olive leaf cactus as a main ingredient.
If you have oily skin
East Asian skin that is prone to breakouts should be mindful of the oil content in products. Stay away from moisturizers that contain a lot of oil or ingredients like Shea butter. Look for light-weight creams and gels that are free of any oils.
If you have dry skin
However, if your skin is on the drier side, as Yong suggests, using the double cleansing method with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser will get rid of any pollutants and impurities on the skin.
Before you choose your skincare, take Acaderma’s smart skincare routine quiz, which will help determine your skin’s needs. “The key to choosing appropriate skincare products is to diagnose your skin type. Whether oily, dry, combination, or sensitive, this process can help to identify which kind of skincare formula or ingredients work best for this type of skin,” Hu mentions.
Keep Reading: Does Darker Skin Need Different Skincare?
