The Ultimate Guide to Sew-In Hairstyles: Everything You Need to Know
Written by: Precious Umeasalugo
Welcome to Sew-in 101.
I still remember when sew-ins were all the rage, even within my family. My mother had her Rihanna-esque razor cut, my aunty always got sew-ins with bundles of yaki straight hair, and you could not convince me that my head teacher's curls did not grow from her head. Then sew-ins slowly phased out, with the women in my life opting for frontals and long knotless braids instead. It has been a few years; the sew-ins are back in style, and everyone's getting them done.
But for the newbies or hair lovers who are trying to get into the now resurgent hairstyle, what exactly are sew-ins? And why are people getting them done anyway? To bring you all the details you need on getting and maintaining a sew-in, we spoke to experienced hairstylist Deborah Awujoola, on the benefits and care of the evergreen hairstyle.
The Expert
Deborah Awujoola is the head stylist at Strands & Style, a mobile hair salon in Lagos, Nigeria.
Her expertise lies in retelling traditional Nigerian hairstyles into modern masterpieces. She is also a fifth-year student at the University of Lagos, studying for a Bachelor's in Physiotherapy.
What exactly is a sew-in?
A sew-in, also known as a weave or "fixing" in some African salons, is a hair technique that involves attaching extensions to cornrows.
"Sew-ins are done by braiding the natural hair into cornrows and sewing the extension of choice directly onto the braided hair using a needle and thread", Awujoola explains.
The cornrows serve as a holding base for the extensions, sewn on top for a seamless, secure look. Preferably, sew-ins are also completed with a section of hair left out, usually in front, to simulate the look that the extensions are growing from the scalp. This section is called the leave-out. From a beginner's eye, sew-ins are sometimes mistaken for wigs, to which Awujoola explains that there is a gulf of difference between both hairstyles.
"Regular wigs can be removed easily and are not usually sewn onto the hair. On the other hand, sew-ins can be worn continuously for several weeks. There is also the comparison with braids which involve weaving or plaiting the natural hair (sometimes with added synthetic hair). Still, unlike sew-ins, there is no sewing involved", Awujoola adds.
What's the Process of Getting a Sew-in?
Sew-ins are easy and quick, primarily because of how they are done. Firstly, your hair is braided into flat cornrows that are all connected, whether at the bottom or by the sides. The direction in which your stylist will braid your cornrows depends on the amount of leave-out you've chosen, or if you want a 360 flip where you can part your hair at any angle.
After completing the cornrows, your stylist will sew the extensions, track by track, onto the cornrows. Usually, this is done by following the direction of your cornrows from the nape of your neck to the top of your head. Finally, when all the cornrows are hidden, your stylist may then proceed to flat iron your leave out, or brush it into the extensions if they are of a similar texture. They may also style the extensions if needed, by curling them with your leave-out for a seamless look.
Are There Any Benefits to Getting a Sew-in?
Sew-ins are not just back in style because of the nostalgia they evoke;; they also have numerous benefits. One such benefit is the cost and time it takes to get one.
"Sew-ins usually take less time to install compared to braids. When it comes to cost, installing a sew-in depends on factors like the stylist's experience and the complexity of the style. However, sew-ins can be a more cost-effective option in the long run since they last longer than braids", Awujoola tells us.
Another benefit of the technique is that sew-ins are great protective styles, especially for textured hair.
"A sew-in maintains the natural hair health and protects it from breakage and harsh environmental conditions. This is because unlike braids which add tension to and expose the natural hair, most of your natural hair remains hidden beneath the extensions", she adds.
There's also the added benefit of longevity and versatility that sew-ins have, as your hair is tucked away, allowing for heat styling on your extensions.
What Kind of Extensions Are Best for a Sew-in?
The process of getting them sewn in is one part, but the extensions you choose can impact the longevity, versatility, and styling of your sew-in.
"In my opinion, natural/human hair extensions are the best to do sew-ins with as they give a more realistic look and feel. They can be styled with heat, dyed and often last longer with proper care compared to synthetic extensions", Awujoola suggests.
With rising costs worldwide, human hair extensions, while long-lasting and realistic, may not be the most pocket-friendly. However, Awujoola still recommends going for these extensions.
"The hair is sometimes a little expensive, and the maintenance is a little more than regular [synthetic] hair, but it's worth it! No one wants to spend on a sew-in only to have it start thinning out a week later", she states.
For first-timers getting a sew-in, Awujoola recommends choosing extensions that match your natural hair texture so you need minimal heat on your leave-out.
"Invest in high-quality human hair, find a skilled stylist, make sure your hair and scalp are healthy before installation, prepare and plan for regular maintenance and post-installation care, and ensure the sew-in is comfortable and not too tight".
What is The Best Way to Care for Your Sew-ins?
Getting a sew-in is one step, but maintaining it is the way to keep it looking fresh and ready to go for some time. Awujoola lists her five must-dos for a long-lasting sew-in.
Protect at night: Wear a silk or satin scarf or use a satin pillowcase at night to reduce friction and prevent tangling.
Use heat protectant: If heat is necessary for restyling your extensions or leave-out, make sure to use a heat protectant and keep the temperature low.
Avoid Excessive Tension: Be mindful of pulling on the extensions, as this can cause stress on your natural hair and scalp. Pay attention to any signs of irritation, breakage, or discomfort. If you notice any problems, please remove the sew-in or adjust your care routine.
Moisturize Regularly: Use a lightweight leave-in conditioner and oils on the extensions and your natural hair to prevent dryness.
Regularly check in with your stylist for adjustments, tightening, or reinstallation.
How About Caring for Your Hair Underneath The Sew-in?
Sew-ins are protective, but you still need to care for your cornrows, or they will be even more prone to damage and breakage underneath the extensions. To do this, Awujoola breaks down her protective tips into two phases: before installation and after installation.
"Before installing your extensions, I recommend keeping your scalp clean by gently rinsing with a sulfate-free shampoo. You also need to detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb and moisturize from roots to end to prevent dryness", she says.
Then, after the sew-in has been installed, you'll need to protect your edges by massaging a light oil or serum to keep them moisturized and prevent breakage. You'll also need to keep your scalp clean by washing your hair every 1-2 weeks, depending on your scalp's oiliness. Your stylist can do this step for the best results.
How Long Should You Keep Your Sew-in In?
"A sew-in can be kept for about 4 to 8 weeks depending on the maintenance, hair type, quality of the extensions, and the stylist's technique", Awujoola tells us.
Why is Everyone Getting A Sew-in, Though?
For every ten videos on our #BeautyTok for-you page, at least one has been a video on getting a sew-in. We're curious about what has led to the sew-in renaissance, and Awujoola has some theories.
"I think more people are choosing sew-ins because they look natural, last longer, protect their natural hair, and easily achieve different looks. Also, the influence of social media has helped more people see the benefits of sew-ins," she says.
