The Ultimate Guide to Cleansing for Darker Skin
Written by: Precious Umeasalugo
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It doesn't get squeakier than this.
Skincare comes with many firsts: your first facial, your first high-end moisturiser, and your first-time trying retinol. My most memorable skincare first was my first cleanser — a rectangular bottle of avocado-scented product containing tiny beads for "mild" exfoliation. When that did nothing but give me microtears, I switched to a more natural alternative, black soap. However, that also left me with more burning, tingling and a few red patches. Eventually, I moved to a far gentler cleanser. But while this one did not give our skin any micro tears or patches, it didn't do much for my other skin concerns.
For many people with melanin-rich skin, finding a cleanser –and learning how to use one properly– can be a journey littered with several trials and many errors. Such experimentation is not helpful to our skin which is prone to inflammation-related concerns.
Thankfully, you no longer need to wander around the cleanser aisle of your beauty supply store, as we have just the answers. To bring you the best advice we spoke to board-certified dermatologist and 4.5.6 Skin co-founder Dr. Carlos Charles on how melanin-rich skin should be cleansed— and we have some much-needed recommendations for you to take the day off with.
The Expert
Dr. Charles is a board-certified dermatologist and the Chief Medical Officer (and co-founder) of 4.5.6 Skin, a skincare brand built for darker phototypes. He is a clinical instructor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of Cornell University and a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery.
In 2012, Dr. Charles founded Derma di Colore, a comprehensive dermatology practice that addresses the treatment of dermatologic problems of all skin types with a focus on the treatment of darker skin tones. Additionally, Derma di Colore conducts national clinical research studies to find answers to the toughest questions for dermatologic issues that commonly affect pigmented skin types.
Why Gentle Cleansing Matters for Melanin-Rich Skin
Your skin comprises several elements, from your sebaceous glands to the layers of your epidermis. But a crucial part of your skin is the skin barrier, which is closely related to some of the skin concerns you've experienced.
"The skin barrier is made up of various components that all work together to protect us from the outside elements such as pollution, harmful microorganisms and ultraviolet light while also allowing us to coexist in a state of balance with the environment.", Dr. Charles explains.
However, when this protective barrier is damaged, it triggers an inflammatory cascade that involves robust melanin-producing cells called melanocytes. These melanocytes will produce excess melanin in response to elements like acne, harsh sunlight, or that abrasive cleanser on your bathroom shelf.
"This phenomenon is known as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation –which is often difficult to correct", continues Dr. Charles.
In addition to the fragile nature of your barrier and the melanocytes underneath, Dr. Charles also mentions the lack of hydrating ceramides in darker skin. "These [ceramides] are key to helping the skin maintain its moisture content, and because of this relative decrease, we can see increased dryness that we euphemistically refer to as 'ashy skin’" he says.
So, when you have skin with a barrier that's so lovingly protective but ever ready to develop a bad case of acne, hyperpigmentation, and ashiness, how do you cleanse? The simple answer is to be gentle.
"Any form of trauma or abrasive cleansing techniques can lead to inflammation on the skin, resulting in unwanted hyperpigmentation. Therefore, cleansing darker skin should be performed as gently and as effectively as possible to minimise the chance of any potential unwanted blemishes and scarring.", Dr. Charles explains.
Should you double cleanse?
Unlike what it might sound like on first listen, double cleansing isn't just washing your face twice. It requires washing twice with two kinds of cleansers: an oil-based cleanser like a cleansing balm and a traditional gentle cleanser afterwards. Where the cleansing balm emulsifies to melt away makeup and sebum, the traditional cleanser that follows removes the rest of the dirt left.
“When double cleansing, it is important to use a gentle cleanser for the second pass, and it’s best to avoid any active ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or exfoliating acids.”
Dr. Charles recommends double cleansing particularly for people with heavy makeup or oily skin, but with a few caveats. "In this method, it is important to use a gentle cleanser for the second pass, and it's best to avoid any active ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or exfoliating acids", he states.
He also adds that while double cleansing works well for people with melanin-rich oily skin, those with inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or rosacea should avoid the double cleansing method as "it can strip the skin and cause excessive dryness, once again leading to inflammation and hyperpigmentation".
Micellar Water for Quick & Gentle Cleansing
If you're looking for an on-the-go cleansing method, it doesn't get handier than micellar water. Micellar water is another excellent cleansing method for melanin-rich skin, thanks to its gentle action on the skin barrier.
"The name ‘micelle’, which is a collection of molecules, refers to its composition because there's such a mild concentration of soap or detergent molecules in the water, so it feels less like soap and more like water", Dr. Charles explains. Its mild cleansing action makes this a popular choice amongst those with sensitive skin. "Micellar water is gentle enough that most individuals can use it and is typically gentle and effective for cleaning dark skin tones."
“I tend to lean towards gentle chemical exfoliators for melanin-rich skin. Physical exfoliators can be used judiciously as they tend to create skin trauma that can lead to inflammation and hyperpigmentation. ”
Gentle Exfoliation for Sensitive Skin
Like cleansing, exfoliation is a step that is most often misunderstood. For people with darker skin, exfoliating the wrong way can have even worse consequences.
“Often, people will reach for physical exfoliation methods to strip away whatever they want to treat. This can leave the skin raw and inflamed, resulting in more hyperpigmentation.”, Dr. Charles says. This is why physical exfoliation, which involves using abrasive materials like sugar or walnut scrubs, is not the safest choice for people with melanin-rich skin.
Instead, Dr. Charles recommends chemical exfoliation, where gentler products formulated with skin-lifting chemicals remove dead skin cells and reveal a softer layer of skin. “I tend to lean towards gentle chemical exfoliators for melanin-rich skin. Physical exfoliators can be used judiciously as they tend to create skin trauma that can lead to inflammation and hyperpigmentation”, he adds.
As for the frequency of exfoliation, it's essential to limit this step to a certain number of times per week so you do not make the skin feel raw. “Exfoliating once or twice per week can typically suffice for achieving the goal of gently removing unwanted older skin cells and surface debris,” he stated.
The importance of pH balancing toners
There has been a lot of debate on whether or not toners are necessary in routines. Our advice? If it's great on your skin, keep it.
"When it comes to toning for darker skin, the same idea applies; gentle is always better", Dr. Charles continues. But choosing the right toner can also be a journey of experimentation. To find the best toner, look for one that is soothing and balances your pH.
"Using a product that is too basic or acidic can lead to irritated, flaky and angry skin. It is essential to use products specifically designed to be pH-balanced, as we have done at 4.5.6 Skin. This is of even greater importance with darker skin types that have been found to have a slightly more acidic pH level and may require a more precise range of products to minimise unwanted inflammation", Dr. Charles explains.
Gentle Cleansing Options
Now that you know to skip the tingly-itchy cleansers and beady scrub-cleanser hybrids, knowing what gentler alternatives are great for you and your skin is vital. Whether you like a deep cleanse with your favourite cleansing balm or a quick wash with micellar water, cleansing is a time to refresh your skin and prep for the other parts of your routine, exfoliating and toning included.
Luckily, there are options for every budget, skin type, and preference, starting with a good double cleanse.
Best Cleansing Balms
Then I met You Living Cleansing Balm
Price: $39
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.6 stars, Cult Beauty – 4.4 stars.
Ingredients we love: persimmon extract for antioxidants and sea buckthorn oil for hydration.
Size: 3.17 oz
Fragrance: yes
Best for: oily skin
Thanks to the sea buckthorn and olive oil in this formula, Then I Met You's Living Cleansing Balm is our top recommendation for a deep double cleanse. The buttery-soft formula also contains grapeseed oil and persimmon extract, which are rich in antioxidants and can help with melanin-related skin concerns like hyperpigmentation over time.
“After over five months of use, I can proudly confirm that this is my go-to. It's extra soft on my skin, washes off my makeup pretty quickly, and emulsifies with water pretty easily too. Overall, I love this and would recommend it to anyone looking for a budget-friendly balm to end the day” – Precious (Precious’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 4 with combination skin)
Heimish All Clean Balm
Price: $18
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.6 stars.
Ingredients we love: shea butter for hydration.
Size: 120ml
Fragrance: yes
Best for: all skin types
With its rich feel and instant makeup-melting properties, Heimish’s All Clean Cleansing Balm has captured our hearts and the dirt on our faces. Formulated with shea butter and citrus herb oil for hydration, All Clean is simple yet effective and is the perfect balm to use on its own or with a traditional cleanser right after.
“Heimish’s All Clean Balm is perfect for those extra stressful days, where I’ve been out for hours with my makeup on, because it works so well. It melts off my makeup effortlessly and while I’m not the biggest fan of the bamboo-like scent, it makes up for it with its cleansing action” – Precious (Precious’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 4 with combination skin)
Best Cleansing Oils
Gentle cleansing is the key to getting all the grime off without harming your skin, and oil cleansers are the perfect way. Since oils can attract and mix with other oils, these oil cleansers pull the dirt and sebum off your skin easily without the need for excess scrubbing.
“The oil can also act as a barrier to protect the skin and keep it soft and moisturised. This is in contrast to traditional soap-based facial cleansers that can strip the skin of all good and bad bacteria and remove the natural protective barrier that is part of the skin”, Dr. Charles adds.
“This form of cleansing can effectively remove unwanted impurities on the skin while not being overly irritating, thereby minimising the risk of unwanted inflammation.”
We recommend:
4.5.6 Skin Come Clean Hydrating Cleansing Oil
Price: $37
Links and ratings: 4.5.6 Skin – 4.7 stars
Ingredients we love: Astaxanthin oil for antioxidant protection and rosemary oil to tackle blemishes.
Size: 100ml/3.38 fl. oz
Fragrance: yes
Best for: dry and sensitive skin
This ingredient-rich cleansing oil is the perfect merger of antioxidants and cleansing agents. Tackling several issues like hyperpigmentation, acne, rough skin texture, and dehydration, 4.5.6 Skin’s cleansing oil was clearly made with skin of colour in mind.
I think so many cleansing oils are now created with double cleansing in mind (and I am addicted to double cleansing myself) but for me cleansing with this product once made my skin feel super clean but still hydrated and I didn’t need a second cleanse.” – Deepa (Deepa’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 5 with combination skin)
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Light Cleansing Oil
Price: $21
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.4 stars
Ingredients we love: Centella Asiatica for hydration and redness.
Size: 200ml
Fragrance: yes
Best for: dry skin
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Light Cleansing Oil is Made with Centella Asiatica, or cica, this light cleansing oil promises a gentle yet effective rinse-off for your face. It also contains bergamot fruit oil and jojoba seed oil for that smooth after-feel.
“If there was ever a must-have cleansing oil, it's this one right here. It really helps with redness around my nose, which is something I struggle with. And it's gentle enough to leave my skin feeling clean without stripping it. It's a 10 out of 10 for me.” – Precious (Precious’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 4 with combination skin)
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil
Price: $20
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.4 stars
Ingredients we love: Ginseng seed oil for antioxidant protection.
Size: 210ml (7.1 fl.oz)
Fragrance: no
Best for: mature, inflamed, and oily skin
Nobody does hydration like the Korean beauty brands, and Beauty of Joseon is great proof of that. Together with Ginseng’s antioxidant-rich properties and soybean oil for hydration, this cleansing oil is great for anyone with inflamed skin or barrier concerns.
“I absolutely love this product. It melts away my makeup and sunscreen so easily and leaves my skin feeling super hydrated. The pump also comes with a lock feature, which has given this a permanent spot in my weekend holiday backpack” – Precious (Precious’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 4 with combination skin)
Best Micellar Water
We recommend:
Avéne Makeup Removing Micellar Water
Price: $18
Links and ratings: Avene USA – 5 stars
Ingredients we love: Glycerin for hydration.
Size: 6.7 fl.oz
Fragrance: yes
Best for: sensitive skin
This 3-in-1 Avéne micellar water gently removes and tones the skin for a fresh look. Plus, it's also a no-rinse cleanser, which makes this a convenient choice for quick refreshes during travel or exercise.
“I would absolutely recommend this to anyone who loves micellar water, because this is my favourite. It cleanses gently, it smells fresh, and it's pretty affordable.” – Precious (Precious’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 4 with combination skin)
Best Hydrating Cleanser for Dry or Sensitive Skin
Unlike the oils and balms that lift dirt, cream cleansers do the same but in a slightly different format. Their creamy texture makes them extra gentle and hydrating on the skin, making them suitable for cleansing for darker skin tones, especially those with dry and ageing skin. “By definition, they are gentle and effective at removing dirt and grime while not creating any disruption to the delicate skin layer, and they are suitable for darker skin tones," Dr. Charles adds.
We recommend:
CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser
Price: $20
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.8 stars
Ingredients we love: hyaluronic acid and ceramides for hydration.
Size: 19 fl. oz
Fragrance: no
Best for: normal to dry skin
Formulated with hyaluronic acid for deep hydration and ceramides to restore barrier function, this hydrating cream-to-foam cleanser by CeraVe provides a clean wash with the best after-feel on your skin.
“CeraVe’s Foaming Cleanser used to be my holy grail. That was until I found this hydrating cream-to-foam one. This cleanser feels so soft on my skin and is perfect for use right after my cleansing balm” – Precious (Precious’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 4 with combination skin)
Best Refreshing Gel Cleanser for Oily or Combination Skin
Unlike the oilier balms and the heavier cream cleansers, gel cleansers have a much lighter cleansing format. Thanks to their water-based nature, they can gently get into your pores and break down excess oil within the skin.
“The key to using an effective gel cleanser is finding one packed with key ingredients without being over-drying”, Dr. Charles advises. Look for gel cleansers with pore-cleansing ingredients like salicylic acid, as they improve the cleanser’s effectiveness.
Dr Charles recommends:
4.5.6 Green Bae Clarifying Cleanser
Price: $37
Links and ratings: 4.5.6 Skin – 4.7 stars
Ingredients we love: salicylic acid for skin congestion
Size: 100 ml/ 3.38 fl. oz
Fragrance: yes
Best for: acne-prone and inflamed skin
“It is a deeply purifying gel cleanser packed with highly effective ingredients, including a natural Salicylic Acid and Palmarosa essential oil to balance sebum production and thoroughly cleanse the skin without dryness or irritation. Green Bae Clarifying Cleanser also has Hemp Oil and Orange Blossom Water that work together to decrease inflammation, reduce hyperpigmentation and tackle stubborn acne and blemishes”, Dr. Charles explains.
Best exfoliating mask
We recommend
4.5.6 Skin To Be Clear Resurfacing Exfoliating Mask
Price: $59
Links and ratings: 4.5.6 Skin – 4.85 stars
Ingredients we love: astaxanthin for antioxidant protection, niacinamide to improve texture, and pumpkin fruit extract for enzymatic exfoliation.
Size: 50ml, 1.69 fl. oz
Fragrance: yes
Best for: all skin types
From astaxanthin and glycolic acid to niacinamide and pumpkin fruit extract, this physical and chemical exfoliating cocktail takes the top spot for its rich ingredient profile.
“My personal favourite from 4.5.6 and currently my must-have exfoliating mask. My favourite thing about this product is you only need to leave it on for 3 minutes and it is gentle and powerful at the same time. It has a creamy consistency and there is a slight tingly feeling and your skin feels so exfoliated, clear and smooth and it’s perfect before a hydrating mask. You can also have it customised to your skin type which I think is an incredible plus.” – Deepa (Deepa’s skin type is Fitzpatrick Phototype 5 with combination skin)
Avoid Harsh Scrubbing & Stripping
Overall, the key to cleansing, toning, and exfoliating correctly is always to be gentle. While we always recommend using your hands to get into the crevices and folds around your face, neck, and ears, we love an excellent washcloth.
While using your washcloth, move in small circular motions with your cleanser applied within. It is also essential to use a soft washcloth to avoid micro tears, as they provide mild exfoliation.
Cleanse with Care and Embrace Your Glowing Skin
Whether it involves opting for cream cleansing, incorporating micellar water into your routine, or using cleansing balms and a washcloth to double cleanse, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to gentle cleansing, especially for people with melanated skin. So, take the time to listen to your skin’s cues and make a personalised routine that works for you.
Why Trust The Beautiful Societies
Every product recommended in this article has either been tested in person by a member of The Beautiful Societies team or recommended directly by an industry expert.
When testing the products, we read the directions provided on the packaging and paid attention to the product efficacy, texture, ease of use and overall experience of using the product.
Precious Umeasalugo is an experienced beauty writer and product development researcher and is currently pursuing a bachelors of science in Pharmacology, Therapeutics, and Toxicology. To write this article, Precious consulted with Dr Charles, a board certified dermatologist and one of the co-founders of 4.5.6 Skin, a skincare brand for melanin-rich skin.
This article is part of our Melanin Skincare Edit series where we collaborate with trusted POC dermatologists to provide evidence-based advice tailored to melanin-rich skin.
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