Dealing with Razor Bumps and Ingrown Hairs on Darker Skin
Written by: Precious Umeasalugo
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For your smoothest shave yet.
Finding ways to get rid of body hair has always been a significant part of my journey with beauty. And even though I strongly desire smooth, hairless skin, it is not a reality I'm very familiar with. Waxes are painful, laser treatments are expensive, and shaving gives me cuts and razor bumps—bumps that are painful and are a common experience for people of colour.
As people of colour, our skin is unique in several ways. We can tan with minimal burning. We experience hyperpigmentation to a greater degree than with white skin, and our hair can be much coarse. Our skin is also unique in terms of post-shaving results, as razor bumps occur much more frequently in skin of colour than with other skin tones.
To understand why this happens–and how to get rid of them— we called dermatologist Dr. Tiffany Alexander to take us through the hows, whys, and don'ts of razor bumps and ingrown hairs.
The Expert
Dr. Tiffany Alexander, MD is a board certified dermatologist who is a a member of the Skin of Color Society, a Diplomate of the American Board of Dermatology and a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.
She graduated from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and earned her medical degree from Howard University College of Medicine in 2017. After medical school, she completed her dermatology residency training at Duke University in 2021, where she served as chief resident during her senior year Dr. Alexander has been the recipient of numerous dermatological scholarships and was the recipient of the 2023 Patient Choice Award for providers.
Understanding Razor Bumps and Ingrown Hairs
If you do not know what a razor bump is, think of those usually painful bumps you find around your bikini line, armpit, or jaw after shaving. These bumps are medically known as pseudofolliculitis barbae, and for people of colour, it happens more often due to the curly nature of our body hair.
"[People with darker skin tones] have curly hair strands which can furl back inward and under the skin. These ingrown hairs cause inflammation, which leads to the razor bumps, or pseudofolliculitis barbae," Dr. Alexander says.
When you shave, the hairs are cropped close to your skin. This is unlike waxing or other hair removal methods, where the hair is completely removed from the root. Because the hairs are so close to the skin, they furl into the skin and remain there - thus the term ingrown - causing the painful bumps we know as shave bumps or razor bumps.
Ingrown hairs can also occur with other hair removal methods like waxing or sugaring, even though the odds are lower, as the hairs can bend inwards during the new growth process.
Why Darker Skin Tones Are More Prone to Razor Bumps
As mentioned, people of colour are more likely to develop these razor bumps and skin irritation, especially after shaving. But why is that?
"People with lighter skin tones usually have straight hairs that are unlikely to grow inside the skin, and their skin that does not leave hyperpigmentation due to inflammation," Dr. Alexander explains.
Conversely, people with darker skin are also more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to the irritation the skin undergoes when the hair furls inwards.
"Curly hair can sometimes furl inward under the skin, causing inflammation. When our skin is traumatised or inflamed, it leaves behind hyperpigmentation," she states.
Knowing what we know now about darker skin and its proneness to razor bumps, it's easy to think of shaving as the enemy. However, as Dr. Alexander explains, there are ways to shave and get a mostly bump-free result.
Prevention is Key: Shaving Tips for Darker Skin
Thinking back to the first few times I tried shaving, I realise now that I was doing the whole thing wrong. It's usually the same for many people who haven't figured out how to shave.
So, first things first, you'll need to prep your skin to get the best results.
Exfoliation is Your Friend
"If you use a disposable razor, always prep the skin before shaving. Apply a warm compress with a gentle cleanser in a circular motion to the areas for five minutes, and then rinse off the cleanser. This loosens any curly hairs," Dr. Alexander states.
By loosening the hairs, you get a much better view of the skin, the hairs, and the right direction to shave in. It is also important to exfoliate before shaving to remove dead skin cells. Dead skin cells around your shaving area can dull your razor, so clearing the area with a nourishing scrub will give you a closer, fresher shave.
Some dual-action cleansers include exfoliating acids or beads, which allow you to loosen hair and clear off dead skin cells simultaneously. For this reason, we particularly like—and recommend—Naturium's The Perfector Salicylic Acid Body Wash.
Naturium's The Perfector Salicylic Acid Body Wash.
Price: $16
Links and ratings: Naturium: 4.4 stars
Ingredients we love: Salicylic acid for exfoliation and Glycerin for hydration
Size: 16.9 oz
Best for: all skin types
“Naturium’s The Perfector has been such a staple in my routine, and I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone looking for a pre-shave body wash. It smells great and my skin feels so soft right after” – Precious.
After prepping, your next step should involve applying shaving cream to allow your razor to glide more smoothly.
Shave often and shave right
"Apply an ample amount of shaving cream, and shave the skin in the direction of hair growth. Do not shave "against the grain". For example, when shaving the legs, you should shave in a downward direction. Use short strokes and rinse the blade after every swipe," Dr. Alexander instructs.
Shaving against the grain can cause the hairs to curl backwards and into the skin, increasing your chances of getting ingrown hairs. Dr. Alexander also advises not pulling or stretching your skin while shaving.
"It's also important to shave often (daily or every 2-3 days) to prevent the hair from growing longer and curling inward toward the skin. Change your razor blade after 5-7 shaves, as dull razors can cause razor bumps. Electric razors are helpful, as well as waxing and laser hair removal," she explains.
Dr. Alexander's Recommendations for Disposable Razors
"If you like disposable razors, use one with a skin guard such as Gillette SkinGuard for electric shavers, I recommend the Panasonic Close Curves Electric Shaver for women. It is cordless, waterproof and has a trimmer with a special comb for the bikini area," she says.
Gillette SkinGuard Razor for Sensitive Skin
Price: $20
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.5 stars
What we love: multiple refills
Best for: Sensitive skin
Panasonic Close Curves Electric Shaver for Women
Price: $40
Links and ratings: Amazon – 4.2 stars
What we love: Cordless design and comfortable in wet hands
Best for: Sensitive skin
Soothing and Treating Razor Bumps
We'd love to tell you you'll never have bumps with these steps above, but here's the thing: there's really no guarantee you'll remain bump-free. So it is important to know just how to treat and soothe your ingrown hairs to help with your post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and, of course, the pain from the bumps.
Dermatologist recommendations for at-home bump treatment
Razor bumps are not only annoying but also painful and can be prime sites for infections to begin. This is why it's really important to keep the area clean and to treat bumps with caution.
"Do not pluck hairs inside razor bumps or extract them using at-home tools. Instead, gently trim them. Also, do not try to shave off the bumps, squeeze them, or use a harsh exfoliant on them. This can worsen them. Instead, pause shaving and see a board-certified dermatologist for treatment," Dr. Alexander cautions.
There is a long list of things to avoid when dealing with ingrown hairs and razor bumps, but there are also treatments you can apply while waiting to see your dermatologist.
"For at-home treatments, apply a benzoyl peroxide 4% product each morning on the affected area, such as the PanOxyl Acne Facial Treatment Wash or the CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser with 4% benzoyl peroxide). Be careful because benzoyl peroxide can bleach dark clothing or towels," Dr. Alexander says.
PanOxyl Acne Facial Creamy Wash
Price: $12.49
Ingredients we love: Salicylic acid for exfoliation and Glycerin for hydration
Size: 6 oz
Best for: acne-prone skin
Other treatments include using retinoids like Differin Adapalene Gel at night or applying hydrocortisone 1% cream to the affected areas after shaving. If none of these help, it may be time to see a dermatologist.
Differin Adapalene 0.1% Gel
Price: $18
Ingredients we love: Adapalene for texture.
Size: 0.5 oz
Best for: acne-prone skin
“Differin Gel was my introduction to retinoids and it's still one of the best ones I have tried. It helped with my blackheads and helped clear my skin in general. It's a worthwhile buy, even though the size in such large paper packaging was slightly amusing –and a bit annoying” – Precious.
"Seek the help of a board-certified dermatologist if the at-home treatments are not helpful, if you have sensitive skin, if you experience irritation from the at-home treatments or if you have extensive razor bumps and ingrown hairs. In-office treatments consist of prescription versions of the topical products mentioned above, which are stronger. Antibiotics can also be helpful, as can laser hair removal or electrolysis. Chemical peels can also help," she adds.
Alternatives to Shaving for Darker Skin
Shaving can be tricky, and understanding what your skin likes and doesn't like can take the fun out of it. So, to manage unwanted body hair, it's great to explore other options that don't require regular attention and razor replacements.
"Laser hair removal is one of the best options to manage unwanted hair. You end up with less dense and coarse hair and reduced hair overall. This substantially decreases the risk of ingrown hairs and razor bumps" Dr. Alexander explains.
However, laser treatment isn't for everyone, as sessions can get expensive and are way too often for the full effect. In this case, Dr. Alexander recommends facial cream options.
"There are also prescription cream and pill options to reduce unwanted hair particularly on the face that you can discuss with your local board-certified dermatologist," she says.
Razor bumps and ingrown hairs can be challenging to deal with, but it's essential to be patient with your skin, follow the basics, and explore other options for hairless and bump-free skin.
Why Trust The Beautiful Societies
Every product recommended in this article has either been tested in person by a member of The Beautiful Societies team or recommended directly by an industry expert.
When testing the products, we read the directions provided on the packaging and paid attention to the product efficacy, texture, ease of use and overall experience of using the product.
Precious Umeasalugo is an experienced beauty writer and product development researcher and is currently pursuing a bachelors of science in Pharmacology, Therapeutics, and Toxicology. To write this article, Precious consulted with Dr. Alexander, a board certified dermatologist with experience treating skin of colour.
This article is part of our Melanin Skincare Edit series where we collaborate with trusted POC dermatologists to provide evidence-based advice tailored to melanin-rich skin.
