Fade Dark Spots Fast on Dark Skin: The Ultimate Guide to Hyperpigmentation Solutions
Written by: Deepa Somasunderam
The biggest takeaway: choose the right dermatologist.
Hyperpigmentation is one of the key concerns in melanin-rich skin. If you're a darker skinned person, you already know what I mean: brown spots, black dots, acne marks, raised spots, small smatterings of dots, it’s never-ending really.
Dealing with hyperpigmentation can make you feel like you're working through a maze so we decided to speak to the experts: dermatologists who have experience in treating skin of colour to give us their answers, once and for all. Keep reading to see what they said.
Dr Rohini Shantharam, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist who practices medical, procedural, and cosmetic dermatology at the Behr Laser and Skincare Center
and the Valley Skin Institute in Fresno, California.
She graduated Magna Cum Laude from the Virgina Commonwealth University and completed her dermatology training at Northwell Health (Hofstra School of Medicine) where she served as chief resident of her training program and founder of the cosmetic clinic. Previously, she was also an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Brown University.
Dr Michelle Rodrigues, MBBS (HONS) FACD, is a Senior Consultant Dermatologist with globally renowned expertise in pigmentary disorders and skin of colour. She is the Founder & Director of Chroma Dermatology, Australia’s first and only dedicated centre for pigmentary disorders and people with skin of colour.
Dr. Rodrigues obtained her Bachelor of Medicine and Bachelor of Surgery degree from Monash University with Honour and completed her post-graduate dermatology training in Melbourne. Dr. Rodrigues has worked and continues to collaborate with world-renowned pigment and skin of colour centres in the U.S.A, Europe and Asia.
Causes of Dark Spots on Skin
Before we understand how to deal with hyperpigmentation, we need to know what causes dark spots on the face. Unfortunately, there is no one answer because you could be getting them for a multitude of reasons.
Dr. Shantharam says, “There are many causes of dark spots/hyperpigmentation in dark skin tones”. Dr Rodrigues concurs and tells us, “There are literally more than 45 causes of hyperpigmentation on the face and they have different approaches to treatment.”
One notable cause (and further complicating factor in diagnosing dark spots) is that they are a sign of sun damage in darker skin types. In this regard, it's important to keep in mind that lighter skin types age differently than melanin-rich skin. Shantharam tells us, “whereas fairer skin types can age with more prominent fine lines, wrinkles and thin crepey skin darker skin types age with dyshchromia's or dark spots as a result of UV radiation and age.”
So seeing a dermatologist is advisable because only a professional can diagnose the cause of your dark spots.
Darker skin tones are more susceptible to dark spots
Simply put, melanin-rich skin tones are at a higher risk of dark spots and there are scientific reasons for this.
Shantharam tells us that, “while all skin types have the same number of melanocytes or "pigment producing cells" in the body, darker skin types produce more melanin with UV radiation, aging, and inflammation.”
Sun exposure can further darken the dark spots on our skin. Shantharam advises, “So, yes, we are more susceptible to dark spots and those dark spots tend to become preferentially even darker with any sun exposure than the surrounding skin because the melanin cells are already excited in those areas.”
But it's not all bad news as Shantharam says, “The positive aspect of this is that melanocytes act as the skin's immune cells and because they are more active in darker skin types we are less prone to skin cancer.” [but less does not mean never: read here on how the lack of awareness of skin cancer in people of colour can create severe outcomes]
Types of Dark Spots
Shantharam provides us with a few categories of dark spots:
“primary pigmenting conditions such a melasma, erythema dyschromicum perstans, or lichen planus pigmentosus to name a few.”
“pigmentation of the skin secondary to a primary inflammatory skin condition such as acne where the dark spots that are left behind are called "post inflammatory hyperpigmentation"
“dark spots or "dyschromias" and dark bumps that are secondary to age and UV radiation.”
Some specific types of dark spots are dermatosis papulosa nigra, melasma, sun spots or lentigos and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Dark spots removal
We all want to know how to get rid of dark spots instantly but before we get to the removal stage, we need to look at the first step. You will need to consult a dermatologist so they can first diagnose your condition. Rodrigues advises that, “the diagnosis is the key as this will inform the treatment plan. So...if you do have hyperpigmentation, see a dermatologist to get a diagnosis first up.”
After you get your diagnosis, your dermatologist will discuss treatment options with you and we deep dive into some treatment options below.
Choosing the right dermatologist
If you have melanin-rich skin, choosing your dermatologist is likely the most important step you will take.
Choose carefully as you need a dermatologist who understands how to treat darker skin. Treating hyperpigmentation on darker skin types will need to be a tailor-made process and as Shantharam elaborates below any incorrectly performed in-office solutions can cause even more hyperpigmentation.
“It is extremely important to see a board certified dermatologist who is well versed in treating dark skin types before jumping into treatments - as there is a very fine line between treating appropriately and being too aggressive. The risks, if not done correctly can be that the areas treated will heal with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
Best Treatments for Dark Spots on the face
Protect yourself from the sun
Suncare is the most important preventative measure for hyperpigmentation.
Rodrigues says, “Sunscreen, Sunscreen, Sunscreen - wear it daily and make sure you re - apply as per the instructions. Choose one with SPF 50+ with high UVA protection and tint.”
It’s also important to check that your sunscreen is approved for use. For example, Rodrigues is based in Australia so she usually warns patients, “Be sure [your sunscreen] is approved for use in Australia - if you are not sure, ask your chemist. Many have claims of high SPF coverage but are not approved by the therapeutics goods administration here in Australia. Seek shade and make sure you get a diagnosis before you embark on any treatment.”
Exfoliate regularly
Shantharam tells us, “Daily exfoliation can help minimize hyperpigmentation and melasma.” Shantharam also provides further details on the type of exfoliation we should focus on.
Physical exfoliation
Shantharam issues a warning here. “Physical exfoliation with scrubs or wash clothes/luffas is not recommended as this can be too harsh to the skin and result in irritation or worsening of the pigmentation in darker skin types.”
Chemical exfoliants
In Shantharam’s opinion, chemical exfoliators may prove more successful in treating dark spots but we need to delve further into the type of chemical exfoliants we should be using. She explains, “Chemical exfoliants include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).”
AHAs: better for treating dark spots. Shantharam says, “The most popular AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. AHAs are superficial exfoliants meaning they exfoliate the top layer of the skin that help treat melasma, sun damage, acne, and superficial wrinkles by stimulating collagen production.”
BHAs: have different benefits and Shantharam says, “BHAs are ideal for treating oily, acne-prone skin and enlarged pores.”
In-office solutions with an experienced dermatologist
It’s comforting to know that there are professional treatments that can give real results. Rodrigues tells us that, “Options for treatment for hyperpigmentation will depend on the diagnosis but many dermatologists have options like medical grade chemical peels and laser and energy based device therapies that can literally remove brown blemishes from the skin.”
However, Shantharam warns, “Treating dark spots on the more richly pigmented skin types can be complex, requiring a very personalized approach. We use a combination of topical therapy, chemical peels, and laser devices to achieve the best outcomes in the safest way.”
If the treatment is not done properly, the risks are real and can result in even more hyperpigmentation. Shantharam says, “It is extremely important to see a board certified dermatologist who is well versed in treating dark skin types before jumping into treatments--as there is a very fine line between treating appropriately and being too aggressive. The risks, if not done correctly can be that the areas treated will heal with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”
Consider over the counter and prescription topicals
Rodrigues says, “Again, it depends on the diagnosis. Sunscreen (broad spectrum SPF 50+ with high UVA protection and built in tint is universally helpful for hyperpigmentation. An over the counter preparation that may help is Azelaic acid and of course, prescriptions for things like hydroquinone can be very helpful when over the counter preparations don't work.
Avoid Home Remedies
The expert advice is to be cautious with home remedies when it comes to hyperpigmentation.
Shantharam warns us that, “We don't have strong scientific data to suggest home therapies will aid in treating hyperpigmentation. I would consult your board certified dermatologist before applying "natural products" on the face as sometimes these can cause irritation, chemical burns, or contact allergies that may make your pigmentation worse.
She also addresses the natural ingredients you may see in the ingredients list on the back of your favourite products: “there are several naturally occurring ingredients that have been formulated into medical grade products. These have been tested and deemed safe for application on the face.”
Keep Reading: Anti-ageing 101 for Melanin Skin
