Does Darker Skin Need Different Skincare?
Written by: Precious Umeasalugo
The experts share some much-needed answers.
If you have oily skin, we can bet you prefer lighter, gel-form moisturisers. And if you have dry skin, you probably love thicker cream moisturisers. To a large extent, your skin type dictates the kind of products you use and love, from the consistency to the application. It even heavily influences when and how you take care of your skin.
But while you may be aware of how much your skin type defines your routine, little is known about skin colour’s influence, especially for darker skin tones. And that leads us to the burning question: do darker skin tones need complexion-tailored skincare products in their routines?
To give some much-needed answers to our melanin-focused questions, we spoke to two experts with extensive experience in caring for and understanding skin of colour. Here’s what they had to say.
MEET THE EXPERTS
Dr Edidiong David Enetie, MBBS, practises at Laserderm Clinics in Lagos, Nigeria.
Dr Enetie obtained her Bachelor of Medicine and Bachelor of Surgery degree from Babcock University, Nigeria. Previously, she worked as a business manager at Ricks & Clare Solution (the authorised distributor for CeraVe and La Roche-Posay in Nigeria). Collaborating with L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty, she handles training, education, and medical interfacing with stakeholders for both CeraVe and La Roche-Posay.
Noelly Michoux, is the CEO and co-founder of 4.5.6 Skin, a skin science company that designs safe and effective formulations for people with darker phototypes IV, V, and VI.
Michoux is focused on solving the inclusivity gap for melanin-rich skincare, working alongside pharmacist and dermatologist co-founders Imen Jerbi, PHD, and Carlos Charles, MD.
What is darker skin and how is it different from lighter skin?
To understand darker or melanated skin, you need to understand a certain group of naturally-produced pigments in the skin called melanin. As Dr Enetie explains, melanin is responsible for giving colour to our eyes, hair, and skin, and it is produced by cells called melanocytes. Inside these melanocytes are melanosomes, organelles responsible for storing and transporting melanin.
Eumelanin and Pheomelanin
Now, there are just as many melanocytes in white skin as in darker skin tones. However, the skin has two types of melanin: a darker pigment called eumelanin and a lighter pheomelanin. In white skin, the pheomelanin content is much higher than eumelanin, and the reverse is the case for darker skin tones.
Also, melanosome activity in the melanocytes is much higher for people of colour like Africans, African Americans, Indians, South Asians and Pacific Islanders. “It is this difference in the degree of melanosome activity that brings about the differences in skin colour”, Dr Enetie says.
Phototypes in darker skin
To further understand darker skin and its essence, it's been classified into three phototypes: IV, V, and VI, all on the deeper end of the Fitzpatrick Skin Scale.
"Darker phototypes are discerned from the lighter phototypes by their ability to tan easily and rarely or never burn, thanks to the inherent but inadequate sun protection their higher melanin content offers," Michoux says, further explaining that while skin colour is a major characteristic of darker skin, it's not the only thing that's unique about it. It turns out there are plenty more distinguishing factors, and we're only getting started.
“It all boils down to inclusivity in the lab, both in formulation and testing. If the product is effective for darker skin tones and manages not to sensitise or inflame the skin, then it is truly melanin-rich skincare””
Common Skin Concerns for Darker Skin
In addition to melanin content, other factors differentiating darker skin from its lighter counterparts include hydration, proneness to acne, and even a thicker dermis.
Darker skin’s hydration problem
Take a much closer look at the macroscopic structure of darker skin, and you’ll notice two things: a thicker outer layer and an even thicker dermis.
The outer layer of the skin barrier, or the stratum corneum, is much more compact than with white skin. And the dermis in darker skin is much thicker due to the robust amounts of compact collagen and elastin in the layer. But Michoux points out that while a thicker dermis and stratum corneum can be a blessing as it could mean slower ageing, it can also pose a problem, primarily with hydration. “A more compact outer layer means it can be difficult for moisture to get into the skin”, she explains.
“Melanated skin also contains fewer ceramides which are lipids necessary for hydrating the skin”, Dr Enetie points out. And on top of that, these skin tones have been shown to have a higher rate of transepidermal water loss or TEWL. All these make proper hydration challenging for darker skin tones, which usually manifests as dull, ashy skin. Sound familiar?
Darker skin is more susceptible to acne and hyperpigmentation
Due to genetics and lack of hydration, darker skin produces more sebum than white skin. This increase in sebum levels can block pores, inflame the skin, and cause acne, eventually leading to acne scars. “It is a vicious cycle that can be incredibly problematic for darker skin tones as the inflammation also leads to hyperpigmentation”, Michoux explains.
While hyperpigmentation is also seen in white skin, it's a much bigger problem for darker skin tones and ties back to our dear friend, melanin. “In darker skin, melanin acts as a policeman or a guard of sorts. It offers mild protection from the sun and is an indicator for when something’s gone wrong with your skin”, Michoux says. “When there’s trauma and inflammation of the skin, maybe from a tear, sun exposure, or over-exfoliating, the melanocytes go into overdrive, producing even more melanin, and hyperpigmentation occurs”.
Darker skin is generally more sensitive
“When it comes to pH, it turns out darker skin has a more acidic pH than white skin”, Michoux says. As such, an imbalance in skin pH from using products with a higher one can disrupt the microbiome of the stratum corneum and lead to inflammation and then hyperpigmentation and acne. See the cycle yet?
With this many unique features in darker skin, we are clear on one thing: darker skin needs a whole lot of care. “It's funny in a way because people with darker skin tones are often told their skin is ‘strong’ and ‘resilient’, and while this is certainly not far from the truth, our skin has unique needs and requires so much more care and love”, Michoux adds.
So what exactly is melanin-rich skincare?
Melanin-rich skincare has taken on many other names: melanin-focused, melanin-safe, melanin-friendly, and even melanin-tailored. But they all are centred around melanin and its needs.
“Melanin-rich skincare is skincare made with melanated skin tones and their skin concerns in mind”, Dr Enetie explains. “These skincare products factor in darker skin's hydration issues, hyperpigmentation, and increased sensitivity”.
“It all boils down to inclusivity in the lab, both in formulation and testing. If the product is effective for darker skin tones and manages not to sensitise or inflame the skin, then it is truly melanin-rich skincare”, Michoux confirms. “During testing, was it tried and loved by people on the darker end of the phototype spectrum? All these things make melanin-rich skincare what it is: effective but gentle care for the skin of colour”.
For a long time now, products marketed towards people of colour with deeper phototypes have been found to contain toxic ingredients. Think hair relaxers with links to uterine cancer or body care products with inappropriate concentrations of hydroquinone.
But there's notable growth with melanin-rich skincare and the emphasis on darker skin research. “Products that understand those key differences in how darker skin is structured and factor in those differences during formulation and testing are the ones to look out for”, Michoux adds.
Does melanin-rich skin need melanin-rich skincare?
Short answer? Yes. Detailed answer? Also, yes, but there are many nuances to be applied. While every skin tone needs gentler, effective skincare, the many features of darker skin (low pH, lack of hydration etc.) highlight a need for skincare products that adequately target those needs. But there is a gap, and it's a big one.
“Many of the beauty brands we have on the market are owned by huge beauty conglomerates, most of which use the same white-centred research in their products, " Michoux says, further explaining that proper research on darker skin needs has just begun. “We’re learning much more on how darker skin is structured, and the discoveries from research are still pretty recent”.
How to choose the right melanin-rich skincare for your skin
Melanin-rich skincare sounds great and all, but being able to discern what's just marketing from the products that actually work can make all the difference. Michoux states that the key to discerning is education. “When you know your skin concerns, the triggers responsible, and the ingredients suited to you, it's much easier to make better choices from reading the ingredient lists.”
Keep Reading: Anti-ageing 101 for Melanin Skin
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